Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Istria, Croatia's Picturesque Peninsula

Istria—with its sleepy fishing villages, azure waters, and verdant hills of truffle, olive, and vine—is still, miraculously, under the radar. Straddling both Mediterranean and Balkan identity, this pointed peninsula makes for not only a perfect Tuscan rival, but for a softer, more refined counterpart to the tourist-soaked Dalmatian coast.

Luckily, a raft of new flight routes from UK airports have pushed open the floodgates, as have a new wave of design-forward hotels, farm-to-fork restaurants, and coastal hideaways. Put simply, Istria is now very much a contender for a worthy weekend getaway for those based in Europe or a tack-on to a longer Balkans jaunt, though bear in mind that such isolated, abundant beauty comes at a slight cost in terms of public transport infrastructure (more on how to get around below).

The small scale and easy roads of the region mean that a typical Istrian day can kick off with some truffle hunting among the inland hills of Motovun, or Buzet, before twisting into a lunchtime snorkel down along the craggy coasts. By sunset, you’re in the quaint old towns of Rovinj, or Porec, sipping crisp Malvazija and wondering where on earth the day went.

Somehow, this place has managed to stay simultaneously refined, yet wild; relaxed, yet always on the move, boasting more cyclists than seagulls, and as many outdoors enthusiasts as there are cashmere clad couples on catamarans.

Istria has long been associated with gastronomy of the purest kind, with a deep, quasi-religious focus on the purity of olives, grapes, and the ever-elusive truffle. It’s not surprising then, that the entire region is littered with high-quality eateries, from Michelin stars to local taverns (referred to as konobas) all offering a slice of the landscape in one place. The highest concentration of superstar eats is in and around the fashionable fishing town of Rovinj, home to Croatia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Monte. However, for a more casual bite, head to Puntulina, built into the cliff-face, so close to the spray that the Adriatic anchovies may as well jump straight out of the sea and onto the plate. Set within the Grand Park Hotel, Cap Aureo is world-class fine dining with a difference. ​​In chef Jeffrey Vella’s dishes, flavor and seasonality are king (such as his life-affirming cauliflower ‘three-ways’ appetizer), with welcome flair and understated theatrics.

A little further south, in the placid olive groves of Bale, Meneghetti Restaurant & Bar offers a local menu, gleaned from their own groves and garden, cooked up by 28-year-old wunderkind Ante Miletic. Dishes dance between truffle-topped fuži pastas, Lim Bay oysters, or whatever is budding in the abundant kitchen garden that day. Heading north into the fairytale hill towns of Motovun, Grožnjan, and more, easier offerings can be found in one of the many roadside konobas, with Konoba Stari Podrum’s convivial garden and open grill well worth popping the hazard lights on for.

It’s worth remembering that, for Istrians, wine is almost as big a deal as olive oil—and rightly so. In recent years, both have been cleaning up international awards, and none more so than those of historic winery Kozlović, whose über modern, panoramic tasting room embodies the region's forward thinking approach, playfully poking out into the ancient, flowing vineyards, and cream fields of Buje.

The joy of Istria is reveling in the mash-up of coast and countryside—and when it comes to play, the place manages to be both relaxed and elemental. Inland, take a dog walk with a difference, at the family run Prodan Tartufi, whose expert snouts (and three generations of human equivalents!) will lead you through the wild, misty hills of Buzet—a town locals say has more truffle dogs than people. It’s worth remembering that nobody leaves Istria without having tasted truffles a hundred ways, from scrambled eggs to ice cream. Beyond hills of so-called ‘Black Gold’ there’s also a handful of serene swimming lakes and waterfalls, such as local spot Zarečki Krov, which is well worth the drive for a lazy lunch.

Down south, surrounding Pula, there’s a wealth of enviable archipelago, islet, and craggy coast to uncover—or at the very least, bask on, lizard-style. For those who like earning a suntan, there’s no better way to take it all in than with a kayak tour around the protected Cape Kamenjak, with its glistening, secluded bays known mostly to locals. Top it off by braving the diving into the grid-ready Kolombarica blue cave which, once inside and when the sun is just right, glows like cut sapphire.

For those chasing more chilled vibes, a private boat excursion out around the 14 protected Brijuni Islands might be the ticket—here Roman ruins, wild deer, and the occasional cresting dolphin compete to become your new lock screen image. In a similar vein, solid pit stops can be had along the coast, from Rovinj’s cobbled old town to those of Poreč and Novigrad, where you’ll forever be drawn through cute slices of limestone alley, back down toward the pure blue sea.

The Adriatic never looked as good as from the vast terrace of the Grand Park, which hovers above the yacht-filled bay of Rovinj. Croatia’s most stylish stay, this sloping, stone-and-glass marvel is tiered into pine-dotted cliffs. The best rooms overlook Rovinj’s pastel old town, which rises from the sea like a watercolor taped to the easel of one of the many sun-stained artists in the historic center. Expect exquisite design, low-lit luxury, and a killer spa-and-infinity-pool combo. This place makes everything a moment—from a decadent breakfast to the scent of the surrounding pine forest. Honeymooners, design snobs, and spa-lovers: this one’s for you.

Slightly inland in the olive groves of Bale, Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery offers a grown-up glamour, far from the coastal buzz. This restored stone estate has the slow elegance of a Provençal country house. Meneghetti is not simply surrounded by nature, but seems to almost emerge from it—vineyards, groves, and around 390 species of ever-present butterflies. Rooms—mostly private villas with pools, and the odd swallow nesting in the rafters—are wrapped in blonde Istrian stone and blush-toned linen. The wine is all made on-site, and food is either locally or home grown.

Further north in the hills of Buje, near the Slovenian border, San Canzian Village & Hotel, part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, is a reimagined hamlet that blends heritage with minimalism and a touch of English-cottage charm. Interiors are natural textures and warm neutrals, with olive groves stretching all around. The crowd skews quietly cool—Berlin creatives and Slovenian tech bros in designer swimwear and Persol shades. The pool overlooks rolling hills, and the restaurant, Luciano, serves elevated Istrian comfort food.

Down south, just 15 minutes from Pula airport, Arena One 99 Glamping is a clever reinvention of the traditional campsite—the most elegant summer camp you’ll ever witness, with retro, cream canvas, safari-style tents and suites spinning up into the pine covered hills. Each tent comes complete with bathrooms, A/C, a TV, and a terrace. Some even have two stories—perfect for pals or pets. Here, the barefoot crowd is all about paddleboard mornings, lazy yoga moves, and easy dinners after long days of sun worship.